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Rat & Mouse FAQ's

How do rodenticides work?

  • Domestic rat and mouse poisons are anti-coagulants, they affect the rodent’s blood, reducing the ability of blood to clot so that exposed rodents bleed internally and die.

How long does it take?

  • Rodents that have eaten sufficient bait will die in 5 to 10 days.

What happens to them after they die?

  • In some cases you may find the carcasses in the vicinity of their nesting area however no one can guarantee that they will die in an accessible area. The use of anticoagulant baits aids carcasses to desiccate very quickly and therefore produce very little odour.

Are other animals or birds at risk from eating dead carcass?

  • The amount of rodenticide that is required to kill a mouse is quite small and rodenticides are not very toxic to larger animals. An animal would likely have to eat dozens of dead mice in a short period of time to ingest enough rodenticide to make them sick and as the carcasses dry up quickly there is very little interest in a dead mouse.

Is one feeding enough?

  • Warfarin and chlorophacinone requires multiple feedings over several days before a lethal dose is accumulated. It is important to provide a continuous supply of bait during this time.
  • Bromadiolone is a single feeding rodenticide and will kill warfarin resistant rats and mice however they may continue to feed for several days and bait supply should be continuous to ensure that all the rodents have an opportunity to feed.

The bait comes in a little pouch; does it have to be opened?

  • No, mice or rats can smell the bait through the bag and will have no problem eating through the plastic bag.

How often should I check the bait?

  • Check bait station at least once a week, and replenish bait as required.

I used the bait, why do I still have mice?

  • It can take up to 10 days to kill the mice or rats.
  • Some mice have developed resistance to warfarin, switch to a bromadiolone-based product.
  • Not enough bait was used. Mice and rat infestations can be quite large (usually larger that you would expect, there is usually never one mouse). Continue to refill the bait station as long as they are eating the bait as it may take some time to reduce the population.
  • Mice can move pellets to another location and cache the bait. Switch to a meal, seed or block bait, which will be ingested on the spot.

I have used a few boxes of bromadiolone bait over the last couple of weeks and I still have mice?

  • The rodenticide is likely killing off mice that are being replaced with new mice or you have a larger population than first suspected. Unfortunately mice will want to live in areas that are desirable to mice. The trick is to make the area less desirable. To do this you have to think like a mouse (or hire a professional).
  • First, make sure all small holes around your house foundation are sealed. Mice can fit through a ¼ inch hole. Check around pipes, wires, windows and doors.
  • Secondly, Mice love clutter and hate open spaces. Basements, garages and storage rooms often can get fill with boxes, old furniture and stuff that mice can hide and nest in. If mice are in an area like this it must be cleaned up.
  • Continue to use a bromadiolone bait as well as traps.

How can I ensure children and/or pets don’t get to the bait.

  • Covered bait stations are not tamperproof and should not be left in the open where accessible to children and/or pets.
  • Purchase a lockable bait station, which can be fastened to the floor to prevent access.
  • There are many types of effective traps to consider instead of baits.

My pet got a glue trap stuck on its hair, how could I remove the trap?

  • Vegetable oil will release the adhesive.

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